Last August, my father and I swapped coasts. I left San Francisco for New York, and he moved from D.C. to Nevada, ten miles outside of Lake Tahoe. He and his partner retired with full pensions after thirty years each with the federal government.
My fathers are practical men. They choose glamorous locations, but buy real estate just beyond the truly desirable neighborhoods, ten, twenty minutes outside of sexy. For the past fifteen years, since I’d left home, they’ve gravitated towards housing developments: little communities of carbon-copy, freshly-built homes surrounded by curving streets named Thistle, Willow, or Tulip. There’s little shade below the young trees. Nearby are similar communities, distinguished from one another by varying shades of roofing tile.
I visited their Nevada home in June. They picked me up from the Reno airport and drove me the hour through Carson Valley, which is, like much of Nevada, experiencing a phenomenal population boom. We passed dozens of new developments on the side of the highway. I imagined what it would be like to return there each evening, to wake each morning in a house that looked just like every other in the neighborhood. It felt suffocating: my life diminished, sliding from view among housing tracts devoid of character, my hand waving for attention before slipping below the surface.
One could say the same for living among millions of New Yorkers, but I would gladly settle for living in a row of Manhattan brownstones. Is it merely the difference of a hundred years that makes a housing tract appealing? What’s “character,” except age and higher heating bills?
They kept apologizing for the bucolic atmosphere of their new home. But coming from New York I found it peaceful, and beautiful: the green Carson Valley surrounded by snow-capped mountains, cut through with slender silver creeks, horses grazing in rolling pastures. It was, to my mind, a substantial improvement over D.C., a town whose appeal I never really understood (save for some high-class bloggers).
Their new house (on Tulip Court) was typically immaculate, with all-new furnishings from some Reno megastore. They’d recently subscribed to XM Radio, with a port in both their car and their living room. Satellite radio has a few hundred stations, but during my visit I only heard two: the first was elevator music, and the second was something called “The Heart”, which featured ballads by such compelling performers as Celine Dion, Whitney Houston, and Mariah Carey. Somehow the elevator music was the worst. They left it on all day at home. After forty eight hours I began hunting for their sharp instruments.
During a tour of the house, they showed me the master bathroom, which contained this framed artwork:

“These are just a few of our new local friends,” my father joked.
I choked back my horror and attempted a smile. “I should move to Nevada,” I said. “Make some friends.”
We bought tickets on a sailboat excursion around Lake Tahoe, which was typically glorious.

After silently capping on my father’s taste all weekend, I realized with dismay that we wore the same shoes.

As soon as I got back to New York, I replaced them.
“You’ve got skinny ankles,” my father said. “Like me.”
Though I’ve been going gorilla on the sitting calf machine, there are some things that resist replacement.
Something got in my eye that day. Tanning lotion, maybe, which I put on too late. For the next several hours my right eye threw a tantrum, reddening and watering till my left eye – sympathizing, no doubt – joined in. After the boat ride we hit a casino. My father’s partner handed me a five dollar voucher, pointing me towards their favorite nickel slots.
But the dark ages reign in Nevada. People smoke in the casinos, cigarette in one hand, cocktail in the other, their bifocals reflecting the whirling, flashing lights of the slot machines. I lasted five minutes, then stumbled out into the merciless sun. I hiked a hot stretch of strip mall road till I found a grocery store. Five minutes later I sat outside, by the rocking horse machine, drenching my eyes with a new bottle of Visine. I held my head in my hands, saline dripping from my lashes to the sidewalk, and listened to the hot engines of SUV’s gliding behind me through the parking lot.
“Are you okay?”
My left eye cracked open. A gray-haired woman, her hands gripping the handlebar of a shopping cart, paused before me. I gave her a tear-stained, squinty-eyed smile, and she wheeled away. Further down the strip mall was a sporting goods store. Five minutes later, hiding behind a ten-dollar pair of shades, I wandered like a drunk into Starbucks where I bought a grande chai that only cost me three bucks.
“That’s it?” I cried. “Three even?!?”
The blonde barista, stunned, nodded slowly, as if I had a learning disability. I grabbed the chai before she could change her mind, and pushed through the doors back into the parking lot, cursing Manhattan under my breath.
Of course I lied. I had told the woman with the shopping cart I was okay, but I wasn’t. By the time I made it back to the casino an hour had passed, and my fathers were sitting by the fake plants in the lobby. Shades on, I waded like a rock star through the waist-high bank of cigarette smoke.
They watched me approach. Self-conscious, I read both sympathy and amusement in their expressions. I’d seen those expressions far too often for my comfort.
Once, during Thanksgiving vacation, shortly after my father had stumbled across dogpoet and found out I had HIV, I caught the flu and hid like a miserable recluse in the seedy motel room down the road from their Palm Springs condo.
Last summer, visiting them in D.C., I’d twisted my ankle while wandering around the Holocaust Museum. I limped well into the next day, the day I discovered that my two-year online relationship had been delusional, that I wasn’t the only one wooing the space monkey, and that nearly everything he’d told me was a lie. When I finally pieced it all together, outside a coffee shop in Dupont Circle, I literally stumbled across the sidewalk into traffic. When I got back to their townhouse in Alexandria I locked myself in the spare bedroom for the next 24 hours.
What pissed me off was my inability to keep up a strong, mature appearance in their presence. Life conspired against me, locking me into the role of pathetic dependent. It was like attending my high school reunion, over and over, unemployed, overweight, and alone. Later that afternoon I lay on the bed in the spare room, eyes throbbing, head pounding, the blinds shut tight against the brilliant Nevada sun, feeling like I’d been taught some kind of lesson.
I’d spent many years feeling superior to my fathers. My whole life had been a refutation of practical: the nomadic artist with the addictive personality, trailing across the country from one glamorous city to another, renting (never buying) tiny apartments I could never quite afford.
That weekend I realized, as we sat together on the living room couch (serenaded by the instrumental version of “Copacabana”), that I was going to profit from my father’s practicality. Due to his financial savvy, his ability to invest, his lack of debt, his choice of value-doubling real estate, I’d be financially set for my retirement. He went through his living will with me; each document prepared, completed, filed in place. It was more than practical: it was his expression of love.
I’d always sneered privately at their tastes, the carbon-copy townhouses, Celine Dion on the stereo, the guest bathrooms designed with an “Asian theme.” I secretly scoffed when my father’s partner told me that The Da Vinci Code was his favorite book. The truth was that I wanted his approval: I worried that – should I ever get published – he’d find my book less than compelling, and set it aside half-read.
I didn’t like knowing these things about myself. I held my breath till I got back to New York, where grande chai’s cost $4.27, to my little studio, to my less-than-practical life, to my everlasting faith that one day I will arrive, one day I will be my own, self-fulfilled, self-possessed man, the success story at his school reunion.